Mumbai is titanic. It is the second most populous city on the planet, with a metropolitan-area population over 20 million. It is the site of some of the direst poverty and the most conspicuous consumption in the modern world.


For instance, the skyscraper at the center of the photos above is the new home of Mukesh Ambani. That is to say, that tower is a single family residence, towering into the haze above deformed orphans begging in the streets. The orphans' deformities were produced neither by genetics nor injury, but by men who burned them with acid or removed digits from their hands in order to produce greater empathy from passing motorists, which means a greater haul of donations for the men to take from the children at the end of the day. India is a place that commands ambivalence.

It's also an incredibly vibrant, cosmopolitan and interesting place. On our first night in we checked into the hotel, then drove to the China House restaurant, a favorite of D's & A's and rated among the best restaurants in Mumbai. It was, without question, the best Chinese food I've eaten. It was also a fun place and a welcome break from the Indian-spice fatigue from which we were all suffering after a week of vigorous restaurant eating.

Jaime and D, J.W. Marriot, our hotel in Mumbai.




Duck carved tableside.


We sampled the Mumbai nightlife, but it begins at 11:00, so I think we missed the peak hours of Bollywood clubbing.

On November 26, 2008 Mumbai was the site of a deadly, guerilla-style terrorist attack by elements from within Pakistan. Being there on the anniversary, there were preparations for memorials going on around the city, particularly at the India Gate, below, which is near the Taj Palace hotel that was the site of some of the worst violence.


Above is the interior of the Leopold Cafe, where we stopped for an afternoon drink. It is a sort of Bohemian/artist hangout, only a few blocks from the Taj Palace. It was one of the places hit in the 26/11 attacks - the terrorists threw a couple of grenades into the crowded eatery, then shot it up. They have made repairs, but in the picture above you can see remaining bullet holes at the top of the column on the left and in the ceiling at center.

Security was high, given the date. But security at many places is permanently high around India. All international hotels in Indian cities have gates; your car will not be let through until the undercarriage has been inspected with a mirror, the body has been sniffed by a dog and the cargo area has been visually inspected. In Mumbai this week, military commando squads were in the streets, but they didn't mind us tourists posing for pictures with their machinery.

We did a lot of general touring of the city. Some cultural highlights included the Jain temple (where we got lucky enough to watch a wedding ceremony underway) and the floating mosque.


A view of the beach from our room.













Jaime, strolling far outside her comfort zone, in a fetid market outside a mosque.