Thursday, May 26, 2016

Sunday, May 8, 2016

Thursday, May 5, 2016

A Devotion to Strange Gods

IMG_20151213_0040
North Shore of Oahu c. 1995


"Deliberately useless, unproductive nature worship, a devotion to strange gods." - William Finnegan, on surfing, author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life